Ruger M77 opinions

Welcome to ArizonaShooting.org!

Join today!

Different torque specs on the action screws can/will drastically affect accuracy. My Bergara B14 HMR is factory spec'd at 55 in/lb. After playing around with load development, I tried different torque settings on the screws. After some experimenting with the torque settings, I found 45 in/lb in the front action screw and 50 in/lb in the rear action screw yielded the most consistent accuracy with my hand loads. 5 in/lbs either way on either screw did effect group size by a considerable margin.

Check with Ruger for the torque specs.
 
You have a bunch of things on the rifle that can effect accuracy. Action bolt torque, scope mounting, barrel harmonics. One of the rifle companies had an adjustable barrel weight to adj for different loads. Maybe Browning in the 80's? I think it was called BOSS but I'm now sure.
 
QuietM4 said:
Different torque specs on the action screws can/will drastically affect accuracy. My Bergara B14 HMR is factory spec'd at 55 in/lb. After playing around with load development, I tried different torque settings on the screws. After some experimenting with the torque settings, I found 45 in/lb in the front action screw and 50 in/lb in the rear action screw yielded the most consistent accuracy with my hand loads. 5 in/lbs either way on either screw did effect group size by a considerable margin.

Check with Ruger for the torque specs.

That might be the issue, I am sure they removed the action from the stock. The rifle is glass bedded, I wonder if they screwed that up when they pulled the action and reinstalled it.
 
I’ve got the bolts marked so I can see if there has been any movement. They haven’t moved after 200 rounds, but maybe the will over time.
 
I agree with the above two points.

1) Harmonics,... more than half of the rifles I have put a brake on, have resulted in groups opening up. Try shooting with it off, then go from there.

2) Over Torqued installation/barrel damage,... this is a hard one to diagnose. More than likely it will take a smith with some special diagnostic equipment.

Personally,... I would chop it down to 16.25", and re-crown. NO BRAKE, but, being as short as this, a break MAY NOT HAVE A BAD HARMONIC EFFECT,... that is something you have to roll the dice on, for yourself.

Short barrels DON'T lose accuracy/group size,... contrary to some folks thinking. In FACT, shorter barrels are stiffer than long barrels, which usually results in tighter groups, unless it is a nice and stiff LONG full bull barrel which I like,... just as well. BUT, that would defeat your "LIGHT WEIGHT RIFLE" purpose.

If you do a little research, you may find, that a 270 caliber shorter barrel, may not result in a whole lot of velocity loss, contrary to some folks thinking.


__________________________________________________________________________
Oscar Wilde,...
“Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.” __________________________________________________________________________
Creator Endowed Unalienable Human Rights, forever!
______________________
My inglorious foe/ignore list !

17-21-23
Crippletrigger
HDS
Marine1
Ranger1
Razorback
YNOTAZ
redj
smithers599
Steve_in_29
stomp442
MarkItZero
Jamnmike
 
Ok, so I just did a bunch of research on muzzle velocity changes per inch of barrel length, Lyman published some info on the .270 and it looks like I would be losing about 35 fps per inch of barrel. Starting with the 22 inch barrel at about 3050 fps currently if I cut it down to 19 inches I would lose roughly 100 fps, this translates to 2 inches addition bullet drop at 500 yards and the bullet is still traveling at over 1600 fps at 650 yards which would insure expansion of the Barnes bullets I like to shoot.

I like the idea of a short, light, handy rifle and the ballistic loss is not that bad so I think I will take it in and have the barrel cut to 19 inches with no muzzle brake and then I will use it as a back up gun/ truck gun. Hopefully the added stiffness of a shorter barrel and removal of the brake will get it back to being a good shooter.
 
Not that 10 FPS makes too much of a difference, but, if you check into some more barrel reduction computation results, you may find a loss of only around 25 FPS per inch.

I think, a more relevant parameter to consider, would be,... the maximum distance you usually take a hunting shot from.


__________________________________________________________________________
Oscar Wilde,...
“Imitation is the sincerest form of flattery that mediocrity can pay to greatness.” __________________________________________________________________________
Creator Endowed Unalienable Human Rights, forever!
______________________
My inglorious foe/ignore list !

17-21-23
Crippletrigger
HDS
Marine1
Ranger1
Razorback
YNOTAZ
redj
smithers599
Steve_in_29
stomp442
MarkItZero
Jamnmike
 
First disassemble the rifle and give it a good cleaning to eliminate metal shavings, etc from the gunsmith work causing potential issues. Then reassemble and torque everything to spec. Do not overlook the optic mounts. Harbor Freight has a surprisingly good torque wrench if you don't have one handy. Now, take it to the range and shoot a group to see how things look. If there is still an issue, switch out the scope for another, known good optic and retest. If the problem still persists, I would consider taking it back to the smith who did the work and giving him a chance to make it right, since there is an obvious problem. If he is not interested in doing the right thing, then perhaps having another smith check the work is worth the cost. This could be a good time to upgrade the rifle the tack driver that you've hopefully always wanted.
 
I owned one in 22-250. Never could get it to shoot 1" 5 shot 100 yard groups. Credit in for a Remington 22-250 BDL
 
My .02 after 'building' a few of these... Take the brake off, hook up with someone here that know a thing or two about chambers and hand loading. Try it and then make the decision, I will say over the years I have taken some issue firearms to gunsmiths and it took me a step or two back from what I already knew.

My experience; Got a M77 MkII in .30-06 in a whim/bet/hurry. Shot 2.7MOA with Rem Core-Lok and Fed Fusion right out of the box. Floated the barrel with a grinder, yup grinder as I was less than a week out from a deer hunt, trigger, measured the lands and chamber, chucked up some 168's in my RC and have very nice .30-06 now and a .243 as well as a .308 and .270. They are very good firearms but will say some take some tinkering to nail. The .270 Hawkeye was best out of the box of all. All are sub .5MOA and in a sled they perform better that the knucklehead behind them. My only complaint is after sending over 1K if I had to guess in the 06 with XBR 8208 and 168GR Game and Match Kings at 3100+FPS the lands are tapering and pitting and case length has grown .002".

Short of the long is get with someone who will work with you and help you, may have a bad rifle but I'm guessing more of bad advice.
 
jdrautoworks said:
Short of the long is get with someone who will work with you and help you, may have a bad rifle but I'm guessing more of bad advice.

It was a great rifle until the break was installed, went from just under 1 MOA to almost 3 MOA.

Still have it sitting in the safe but I think I will pull it out this week and take it to a different gun smith and ask their opinion on it and get some prices for the work I am considering.
 
Back
Top