NM Super Blawhawk - can't pull hammer back

[WRMorrison]

I picked this pistol up used from my LGS last year, and have run less than 20 rounds through it (.44). I worked up some loads for it a few days ago and took it to Rio Wednesday to test them out. First 3 rounds went downrange without a hitch. On the 4th (singe loading each round), I can't cock the hammer. With the loading gate open, the cylinder spins freely. If I spin the cylinder to between cartridge bores, I can cock the hammer just enough to index the next bore, but not fully.

I've read of problems with the cylinder base pin not seating fully, but I can push the base pin in as far as it will go (even holding it back by hand), and I still can't cock the hammer. I've read of a problem where the transfer bar hits the firing pin and won't let the hammer cock, but when I tilt the muzzle in the air, I still can't cock the hammer.

Any suggestions on what to check next or is a full tear-down required? I was planning on using it for a deer hunt in a week or so... I've got other guns I could use, but was looking forward to using this one. I could always send it to Ruger, but I know I won't have it back in time.

-WRM

 

[smithers599]

No clue, but just like sometimes restarting your computer can fix whatever was the problem, sometimes taking your gun apart and putting it back together fixes it.

I used to own a SBH, long ago, and I recall that removing the cylinder and hammer was not difficult. I also recall a Security Six that had a similar problem not cocking, and it was because the hand was out of position.

Try it; it can't hurt, and might help.

Happy hunting!

 

[Harrier]

Send it to Ruger and use something else to hunt with. The risks of something going wrong are too high if the simple known fixes didn't work. Even if one of them is the problem, they both would require parts replacement or professional repair to absolve you of liability down the road...

 

[shooter444]

Agreed,... never know who did what to it,... especially with a used piece passed on to a retailer. Ruger is your best bet for a hassle free fix, imo!

 

[What]

Nothing to contribute but what was the load grain did you use on it and what was the norm beforehand?

 

[WRMorrison]

Last round fired was relatively weak; 240gr XTP over 23.0gr H110. The norm (if you can call it that; I'd only shot ~18 rounds of AE 240gr JHP's through it.

-WRM

 

[YNOTAZ]

I looks like the SBH is petty simple. According to the manual the cleaning instructions should get you down to the point of seeing what is going wrong. Since that doesn't strip it any further than Ruger recommends I would do that first.

Start from the bottom, grips spring hammer, etc. If that doesn't work, then a trip to Ruger.

Here's the manual in case you didn't get one with the revolver.

http://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/blackhawk.pdf

 

[WRMorrison]

I got it apart, and while one side of the trigger spring was disconnected (see the second pic), I didn't see anything that would cause the problem. But, I didn't have enough time to remove the hammer/trigger.

But, this thing (below) drops down when the loading gate is opened (allowing the cylinder to spin freely) but doesn't drop down when the hammer is cocked (cylinder removed). I'm pretty sure this is why I can't cock the hammer when the cylinder is in; hammer can't go back/down because the cylinder can't spin. If I get the time between now and Sunday, I'll take it apart again and fully disassemble it to see if I can find out how the mechanism works and what isn't doing its job.

-WRM

 

[YNOTAZ]

Take a look at page 24 of the manual, the caution on item 5.

Based on the picture of the trigger spring, I wonder if the last owner did not assemble it correctly after cleaning or a shade-tree Smith cleaned it up before reselling it.

I'm not familiar with Ruger wheel guns so just going by the pictures.

 

[WRMorrison]

I'm fairly certain that the base pin was fully inserted, but I'll double-check it again this evening if I get a chance. I've only got a handful of revolvers, so I'm not intimately familiar with how they operate.

-WRM

 

[shooter444]

Here's a wild shot in the dark!!!

I have read about folks suggesting to dislodge springs to lighten trigger pulls.
Don't know anything else about it,... never did it,... don't even know if the recommendation had to do with a Ruger, or not.

But, if this is a possibility,... maybe something went south on the previous owner, after doing such, and just swapped it off. I have heard of more stupid things!

Did you try re-installing that spring, and see if that changed anything?

Just a shot in the dark!

 

[WRMorrison]

I put the spring back where it belonged; no change.

-WRM

 

[shooter444]

Hmmm,... thinking,... the only time I had something like this happen, was with a TOO LIGHT load that didn't force the case back hard enough, and the primer came out a bit, jamming up the entire action.

I am beginning to think this may be a MAJOR timing problem that needs a good single action smith,... or, RUGER.

Sorry! Not much help!

 

[WRMorrison]

No worries; I appreciate all the help so far. I'll tinker with it for the next few weeks, and if I can't figure it out, I'll send it back to Ruger.

-WRM

 

[shooter444]

I am no gunsmith! I have sold guns in parts, that I couldn't get back together! But, I am into colt clone single actions, which , even I could fully break down to every part! I don't know about Ruger SA's, I'm sure they are more complicated, but it is still a Single Action. Take your time, and if you have to disassemble more than twice,... you may be surprised how quickly a complete understanding of SA's, can be acquired!

 

[WRMorrison]

I got it apart last night and think I might have figured it out. This little spring detent on the hammer was stuck and wouldn't spring in/out. I put some kroil in there and worked it back and forth until it was free, and then reassembled. I can draw the hammer back now and the cylinder rotates as it should, but now the loading gate is stiffer to open, and the cylinder doesn't rotate with it open. I'm thinking it has something to do with the loading gate spring.

Easy to take apart, kind of a PITA to put back together.

Gonna take it apart again this evening and have one last go at it...

-WRM

 

[shooter444]

Like I said,... it gets easier after the second disassembly! :lol:

 

[smithers599]

Yep. Somebody took it apart and put it back together wrong.
You got this.

 

[shooter444]

Yep. Somebody took it apart and put it back together wrong.
You got this.

And then probably tried to force it to cycle!

:naughty:

 

[needsmostuff]

Sorry I did not find this thread sooner but I'm sure you found the primary problem.
And I think you are looking in the right direction on the follow up problem.
The loading gate spring is easy to dislodge when cycling and or dry firing with the cylinder out . Sometimes, if the tip has been polished ,dry fire with no cartridges or snap caps will let it happen.
Usually no disassembly required other than cylinder removal. Easily seen in your first picture you can see the tip under the loading gate. If it is sticking out , it is wrong. Hold the loading gate closed and just push it down and in. Should pop into place. If that does not work remove the two back screws and loosen the three bottom screws. Pulling the gripframe down a little can relieve pressure on the loading gate spring. IF THE GRIPFRAME MOVES, don't force it. If it doesn't you may have to remove the gripframe and re assemble.

The unattached leg of the trigger return spring is very common and not an issue. Widely done it is known as a lazy, easy way to reduce trigger pull. There are much better ways to do this but it seems to be harmless ,,,,and easily reversible.
Too bad your not closer , we could get ya fixed up in a heartbeat, but it seems your getting there just fine.