You can frequently get barrel+bolt combos that have been factory set and checked.
Typically only higher end companies will offer that service, White Oak Armory etc. They charge an extremely reasonable fee for it as well.
Any time you have a new barrel/bolt combination the chance of tolerance stacking raises its ugly little head and its possible, albeit unlikely, that a suboptimal fitment between the two occurs.
Thanks for your honesty @Hammer 35 always thought it was a can of worms.
I might be staring straight at it in the future that is why I am trying to decide now, spend the extra $80.00 on gages or chance it......
So, I've also heard tell that a in-spec factory cartridge will act reasonably well as a "Go" gauge, and the same cartridge, with a piece of scotch tape covering (but not hanging over the edges) will act reasonably well as a "No-Go" gauge.
I'm in no way advocating, or encouraging the use of such shade-tree, Bubba methods, but it's a thing that's been done and may suffice for your purposes.
It's not something I'd do building a match rifle, but to diagnose something at the range, it works in a pinch
Adding a layer of tape to a Go gauge is a legitimate gunsmithing technique. A single layer of scotch tape adds a predictable dimension to a head space gauge.
If you are going to spend money on head space gauges, it can be worth it. If you were building 5+ guns per year, I'd invest in a set of Go, No Go, and Field gauges.
If you haven’t bought yet. Check out spintaprecision.com they have a 16” dissipator barrel that’s amazing! 16” rifle gas system. Smooth shooting. I’ve got 3. If looking at 14.5” I went with a ballistic advantage mid gas barrel and love it too. It’s crazy how that 14.5” feels so much shorter than a 16 does
