Green tip 223/ 5.56

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It has a small steel core and is said to be light armor piercing, (LAP). Nothing really special about it in my opinion. I’d choose accuracy over any LAP round
 
I shot standard FMJ and green tips at my steel plates. Maybe the green tips would have more of an impact on thinner steel, but they didn't even seem to indent the steel any different than the standard ball rounds.

That's just my experience, but I'd be curious if anyone else has seen a big difference in certain types of targets.
 
Most ranges, both indoor and outdoor, have rules against shooting it at their range.
 
It'll ding up thin steel pretty good at closer ranges.

Otherwise it's less accurate in my experience than the 55gr 193
 
Thom- Here you go.....

https://www.ammunitiontogo.com/lodge/m855-vs-m193/

This is a good article explaining the differences and uses as applied by the US ARMY and civilians.....

Nice to see you here Thom.....
 
thom said:
What is so special about green tip ammo? Is it armor penetrating?

Thanks,
Thom

I have a lot of them not fire. Primers hit but no fire. I don't think I have light primer strikes. Ruger American rifle. Russian 223 shoots fine and is supposed to have harder primers.
 
That's a couple of people that have said it's less accurate. Does anyone know why that is? Is that maybe just from certain manufacturers or is it just the nature of those bullets?

r0ttie1, I've shot hundreds of them through my Ruger Mini 14 without any misfires, and I know those rifles are known to have light primer strikes on a lot of Russian steel case ammo. Do you know what brand you were shooting in your Ruger?
 
AZ_Five56 said:
That's a couple of people that have said it's less accurate. Does anyone know why that is? Is that maybe just from certain manufacturers or is it just the nature of those bullets?

r0ttie1, I've shot hundreds of them through my Ruger Mini 14 without any misfires, and I know those rifles are known to have light primer strikes on a lot of Russian steel case ammo. Do you know what brand you were shooting in your Ruger?

Tula, but that is not the issue. The green tip is what is not firing consistently. About 4 bad rounds out of the last 50 I've shot.
 
AZ_Five56 said:
I shot standard FMJ and green tips at my steel plates. Maybe the green tips would have more of an impact on thinner steel, but they didn't even seem to indent the steel any different than the standard ball rounds.

That's just my experience, but I'd be curious if anyone else has seen a big difference in certain types of targets.

I have a couple AR500 targets. The green tip makes a large "splash" in it. Quit shooting them with it.
 
AZ_Five56 said:
That's a couple of people that have said it's less accurate. Does anyone know why that is? Is that maybe just from certain manufacturers or is it just the nature of those bullets?

r0ttie1, I've shot hundreds of them through my Ruger Mini 14 without any misfires, and I know those rifles are known to have light primer strikes on a lot of Russian steel case ammo. Do you know what brand you were shooting in your Ruger?


I believe it could be less accurate because of the steel core causing imbalance of the projectile
 
Here is a good article with some interesting testing data.

https://www.shootingillustrated.com/articles/2012/9/4/green-tip-accuracy-test/
 
In accuracy the right twist rate is key. Longer projectiles require faster twist rates, this is why the good calculators require that you enter the projectile length. (Yes, weight too is enterd. However, then the projectile diameter cannot change to accommodate the weight . . The bullet must get longer). Berger has a good calculator on line but is primarily designed for boat tail bullets.
You can also "over stabilize" a bullet. Bullet makers are getting much better at producing concentric jackets. But NOTHING is perfect. If the core is out of rotational center , then the faster the bullet is spinning the more kinetic energy there is in sideways movement to throw the projectile off target. This is why some stability calculators have a scale to show you the stability. Moderately Stabilized , Optimally Stabilized, Over Stabilized.
"QuickLoad" has a great stability calculator. But be prepared to dish out $150- $200 for this. It also has load data, powder burn rates, ballistic calculator, and much more.
 
It will work fine most times but it's a multi piece projectile.
Lead>hardened steel tip> outer jacket
All made by the lowest bidder. In different countries to just slightly different specs.

It's not inaccurate, it just wasn't made for match work.
Its minute of Soviet horde accurate.
JNZ0r8S.jpg
 
accuracy comes down to bullet weight and twist rates of the barrel. The green tips are heavier at 62gr and IIRC likes a twist rate around 1/7

I have played around with them and I have shot steel at the same distance with both green 62gr and non 55gr and the green would punch through the plate where the other 55gr stuff would not
 
XJThrottle said:
AZ_Five56 said:
I shot standard FMJ and green tips at my steel plates. Maybe the green tips would have more of an impact on thinner steel, but they didn't even seem to indent the steel any different than the standard ball rounds.

That's just my experience, but I'd be curious if anyone else has seen a big difference in certain types of targets.

I have a couple AR500 targets. The green tip makes a large "splash" in it. Quit shooting them with it.

Pics of plates and impacts. Lighter marks are 22lr and pistol rounds.

 
It's supposed to be able to penetrate 3mm of steel at 600 yards. I agree with others, accuracy is probably primary consideration.
 
I've been casually loading the 62gr from a batch of pulldowns I bought several years ago. I cant get them to group for shit (1.3" @100) but its fun shooting "hard" targets with em. I load them at 556 pressure and theyll blast through most mild steel and will put a nice chunk in AR500
 
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