Corrosive primers?

[Boriqua]

So mostly because I like to experiment .. couple months ago picked up some Prime all.

https://22lrreloader.com/

We havent gotten around to actually making any primers but we have removed the anvils from some 300 spent primers and cleaned them and the cups where they have now sat for ages.

So its my understanding that one of the elements in the mix will mean that the primers are corrosive. I am sure someone here smarter than myself about such things will challenge that assumption if I am wrong and that is cool.

So .. I still want to try it but I was the kid that made believe Cigar tubes were test tubes and I was inventing stuff from household ingredients.

So if I use them .. I would use them through a handgun and .. what do I have to do afterward to insure the primers are not damaging anything?

I usually do a field strip and clean slide, barrel and anything I can reach from up high after a range visit but .. I would hate to ruin a fine gun with the stuff.

 

[Suck My Glock]

The corrosiveness comes from micro salts that are remnants of the decomposition of the primer compound when it goes off. Those salts are hydroscopic, which means they will absorb the moisture out of the air unto themselves, and this salty moisture is what does the damage. Even in non-humid environments like we have here, there is still enough moisture in the air to be a problem, and it doesn't take long at all. DO NOT WAIT to clean the gun after using corrosive primed ammo. I found this out the hard way using Yugoslav 7.62x39 one day. I thought waiting 12 hours to clean the AK wouldn't hurt it,...and I was wrong.

Basically, anything that will douche out the interior of the weapon will work. Even water, though you would obviously follow that up with a secondary douching of some sort of water-displacing oil.

The Russians keep it simple. They take an open 55 gallon drum of diesel fuel and simply dunk the entire AK in it and then withdraw it and let drain. Simple, effective and even lubricates at the same time.

Because it is cheap and plentiful and gets into all the little recesses where stuff might hide, I used to use cans of WD40 with the little straw nozzle to hose out a weapon. But after bad experiences with WD40 as a lubricant for AR15s, I've switched to Ballistol. The Germans invented it specifically for use in cleaning weapons with corrosive salts back before WW1 and used it up until the end of WW2. It is skin-safe, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable. It costs a little more than the WD40, but the Germans always made good schit.

 

[Boriqua]

The corrosiveness comes from micro salts that are remnants of the decomposition of the primer compound when it goes off. Those salts are hydroscopic, which means they will absorb the moisture out of the air unto themselves, and this salty moisture is what does the damage. Even in non-humid environments like we have here, there is still enough moisture in the air to be a problem, and it doesn't take long at all. DO NOT WAIT to clean the gun after using corrosive primed ammo. I found this out the hard way using Yugoslav 7.62x39 one day. I thought waiting 12 hours to clean the AK wouldn't hurt it,...and I was wrong.

Basically, anything that will douche out the interior of the weapon will work. Even water, though you would obviously follow that up with a secondary douching of some sort of water-displacing oil.

The Russians keep it simple. They take an open 55 gallon drum of diesel fuel and simply dunk the entire AK in it and then withdraw it and let drain. Simple, effective and even lubricates at the same time.

Because it is cheap and plentiful and gets into all the little recesses where stuff might hide, I used to use cans of WD40 with the little straw nozzle to hose out a weapon. But after bad experiences with WD40 as a lubricant for AR15s, I've switched to Ballistol. The Germans invented it specifically for use in cleaning weapons with corrosive salts back before WW1 and used it up until the end of WW2. It is skin-safe, non-carcinogenic and biodegradable. It costs a little more than the WD40, but the Germans always made good schit.

thank you so much. a wealth of good information.!! I would guess any clp for the hosing would work?

 

[Isnake]

+1 Ballistol

 

[Boriqua]

Guess im getting on amazon to buy ballistol. Been reading about it for YEARS. Guess it's time to give it a go.

 

[superduty38]

+1 Ballistol. Good stuff.

 

[samnev]

After trying a number of different methods I also switched to Ballistol, good stuff.

 

[792mauser]

Anything with water.
The danger like above mentioned is the coating of salt in the bore. Which will draw water in and then form rust and over time ruin the bore.

 

[bill460]

I made up this from a 7.62 X 54 MM case for cleaning my Mosin Nagant rifles. I shoot nothing but corrosive Russian ammo in them. After shooting at the range I take a squeeze bottle full of Simple Green and water, (50 / 50 mix), and flush the bore with it.

Simple Green is fantastic for this. It dissolves all of the corrosive salts on contact, and sends them out the muzzle. Afterward I run an patch down the bore soaked with WD-40, and it's nice and clean until I get home. I also clean the bolt with this mixture, then give it a good soaking with WD-40. It will displace any water it comes in contact with.... Which is what it's designed to do.

 

[samnev]

I've used GI bore cleaner followed by Hoppe's #9 for many years and never had a problem with corrosive primers in any of my MG or rifle barrels.

 

[gunluvver]

Hoppe's #9 is my choice. Maybe because I ended up with a huge bottle of it, but it does the job. The odor takes me back 60 years to where my dad opened up the gun locker and I got to gaze at his treasures. All my X54 and a lot of my X39 is corrosive, and #9 has kept the corrosion at bay.