Case Prep Recommendations

[AZ_Five56]

First, let me say that I'm new to reloading, and I'm just getting ramped up and ready for production with my Dillon XL650. I'm looking to do primarily 5.56, but I may also jump to doing 9mm and 45 on that machine in the future. I'm in no rush to start hammering out rounds, and I'm taking it slow learning each part of the process thoroughly before moving on to the next step.

Starting with brass prep, I'm using a Dillon CV-500 to clean buckets of dirty old brass. After that, I'm checking the condition of the cases and separating out by certain headstamps. From there, I was going to run it through the 650 to do a full length resize/de-capping, swage the primer pockets, and resize with the Dillon RT1200. Having never done this process yet, I haven't seen how cleanly cut the cases come out from the case trimmer, but I've heard they do an extremely clean-cut negating the need for deburring/chamfering.

From all the reading and Youtube videos that I've digested, it sounds like I should be good to start loading rounds with that brass, but I understand that a lot of people like to drop the brass in a tumbler after de-capping to clean out the primer pockets. I don't know if that's necessary or not, but I'd appreciate recommendations if you have them. Also, for standard range ammo, is it worth it to deburr flash holes, or is that a process reserved for precision loads?

What kind of tumblers do you like or do you like using both kinds? I just have the dry tumbler for now and I've tried walnut shell and corn cob media. It's okay, but I was looking at purchasing or building a wet rotary tumbler. I understand they come out a little prettier from that process, but drying the brass would be an added step.

I know a lot of you guys have been reloading for decades, so I'd appreciate anything at all that I can glean from the community on case prep.

 

[Harrier]

I do most of my case prep by hand... its time consuming and labor intensive and I cuss all the time... but it sounds like you could automate several steps and get done a lot easier and faster with the 650... id work on that setup and then have another setup for the loading stage... sounds like your on the right track.

 

[QuietM4]

I've been using a rotary tumbler from Harbor Freight...I think it was around $50. I tumble 50 pieces of 6.5 Creedmoor each batch in 1lb of stainless steel pins in hot water with a splash of Dawn and some Lemishine; brass come out looking new. I deprime prior to this so the primer pockets also get cleaned out. Drying is accomplished by my oven...30 minutes on low (about 175-200 degrees).

As I am separating the pins from the casings (before the drying oven), I check for split cases, etc.

I am relatively new to reloading as well, still working on my process. I think at this point I have it worked out. I am using a RCBS Summit Single Stage, but I am also only loading one caliber right now. Maybe a progressive some day, but I don't really need it right now.

I made a little check list that I place in each ziplock bag of 50 cases that tells me what stage(s) have been completed; deprime, wet tumble, lube/resize, case length trim, chamfer/debur, and primer.

 

[AZ_Five56]

I do most of my case prep by hand... its time consuming and labor intensive and I cuss all the time... but it sounds like you could automate several steps and get done a lot easier and faster with the 650... id work on that setup and then have another setup for the loading stage... sounds like your on the right track.

Yeah, I was hoping the 650 would keep me from going crazy with reloading 5.56. I plan on doing so much of that, but for other cartridges in smaller batches, I'd probably do the same as you. I have one tool head setup just for prepping the cases after initial cleaning, and then another tool head to load the rounds on the same machine.

 

[AZ_Five56]

Thanks for the input AZ1182 and QuietM4!

It sounds like the consensus is rotary tumbling after decapping. That's the way I've been leaning, but it's good to get some feedback. I've already had to swap the abrasive once in the dry tumbler, and I understand the turnover on stainless steel media is much less frequent.

As far as media separation goes with stainless pins, can you use a rotary media seperator like with dry media?

Also, is the oven/dehydrator an absolute necessary step after wet tumbling, or is it okay to lay them out in the sun to dry (assuming it's not humid outside).

 

[AZ_Five56]

Thanks for the input AZ1182 and QuietM4!

It sounds like the consensus is rotary tumbling after decapping. That's the way I've been leaning, but it's good to get some feedback. I've already had to swap the abrasive once in the dry tumbler, and I understand the turnover on stainless steel media is much less frequent.

As far as media separation goes with stainless pins, can you use a rotary media seperator like with dry media?

Also, is the oven/dehydrator an absolute necessary step after wet tumbling, or is it okay to lay them out in the sun to dry (assuming it's not humid outside).

Yes, but do it slow initially until you start to feel the weight being lifted. I go back and forth slightly until the weight from the pins are gone, and then place on a food dehydrator.

Yes, you can use the sun and it works fine but there may be thee occasional wet spot mark but if you're okay with that, eh, go for it. I like the dehydrator way, 149 degrees for an hour and change.

Okay, I may try drying a small batch in the sun and see how I like the results. I like the dehydrator idea, but it seems like kind of a pain with the quantities I'm doing. I may try to get some huge commercial baking pans to put several large trays in the oven at once.

I was looking at possibly building a large rotary tumbler that I could put a 10 or 15 gallon drum on for doing large quantities, but it might not make sense if I can't dry it quickly enough. I guess that will depend on how they look after drying in the hot sun, because a dehydrator or oven seems out of the question for several thound cases at once.

 

[QuietM4]

I know you can use a screen mesh separator for the pins, but I just found a large fine mesh strainer meant to be used for pasta and dump the tumbler into that...rinse it under water, then as I inspect each case I fill it with water then dump a few times to rinse out the pins. Once in a while I will find a pin that wedged itself in the case mouth, so I throw that pin in the trash. The pins done really ever degrade, so once I weed out the pins that get stuck, the problem goes away.

I then set the cases onto a towel for a quick preliminary dry (I just roll them all in a row on towel), then into the oven. I do get the occasional water spot, but those go away with a quick wipe with a microfiber cloth, which every case gets after resizing to remove the lube.

Largest qty of cases I've seen done is about 200. I think the Franklin Armory tumbler will do that qty...anything over that and it either 1. is to heavy to tumble or 2. not very efficient...not every case gets the time/attention it needs to be clean.

I guess you could try building some large contraption to tuble a home depot sized bucket...but the reloading process is more of a zen time for me. I like doing the steps...

 

[AZ_Five56]

I know you can use a screen mesh separator for the pins, but I just found a large fine mesh strainer meant to be used for pasta and dump the tumbler into that...rinse it under water, then as I inspect each case I fill it with water then dump a few times to rinse out the pins. Once in a while I will find a pin that wedged itself in the case mouth, so I throw that pin in the trash. The pins done really ever degrade, so once I weed out the pins that get stuck, the problem goes away.

I then set the cases onto a towel for a quick preliminary dry (I just roll them all in a row on towel), then into the oven. I do get the occasional water spot, but those go away with a quick wipe with a microfiber cloth, which every case gets after resizing to remove the lube.

Largest qty of cases I've seen done is about 200. I think the Franklin Armory tumbler will do that qty...anything over that and it either 1. is to heavy to tumble or 2. not very efficient...not every case gets the time/attention it needs to be clean.

I guess you could try building some large contraption to tuble a home depot sized bucket...but the reloading process is more of a zen time for me. I like doing the steps...

That makes total sense to me for smaller quantities like that. With the way I'm attacking it at this point, my first massive batch of cases will already have been inspected closely for damage after I did that initial cleaning, so I think the biggest thing to inspect for is pins still in the cases like you mentioned. I don't know if it would be a problem or not to hold off on close inspection for pins until after the drying process. If I do a large batch in a wet tumbler, I'd want to get them all drying asap, that's why I mention that.

Also, does anyone see a problem tumbling the brass after the resizing/trimming process? I want to make sure I'm not compromising the cases in any way during tumbling that would not allow me to go directly to loading from there.

 

[AZ_Five56]

I use half gallon containers to fill with brass and once I get close to the level, I know that there's now enough brass to start my decap process and dump in the FART to begin the cleaning process.

I used to do the dry tumbler way until an old salt taught me how to be much more efficient with a rotary and how much brass was too much. I like it so much, I copied his entire process for rifle brass and made it my own. The only thing that I don't do is the decap/clean, annealing then clean and trim/chamfer/debur. Once I decap, cleaned, sized, clean again to remove the lube, I anneal then trim and chamfer/debur.

But for the quantities that you're talking about, perhaps you should go looking for cement mixers, lol.

One thing that I've learned on my own is that trying to do too much in that amount you spoke of, will quickly burn you out and then days go by and nothing gets done. Just an observation, friend.

Annealing is one things I think I'll add in the future. From what I understand, it's supposed to extend the life of the case by softening the mouth, is that right? I was listening to a podcast this past week with the guys from Berger, and they recommended annealing before ANY case manipulation such as resizing or trimming. They were talking reloading for long range shooting.

You might be right about the cement mixer! Maybe a little overkill for me. I'd mostly be worried about how much money I'd have to drop on stainless steel and the media separation process!

I see where you're coming from about not doing too large of quantities. It does seem therapeutic in small bursts, and monotonous in longer stretches. Fortunately, I won't be doing too many at any one time. I'm just trying to do the tumbling in larger quantities so I don't have to do so many loads.

 

[QuietM4]

Many people tumble the brass again after the resizing process to get any excess case lube off...I don't, I just wipe off with a cloth.

If you tumble after resizing, you may end up rolling over the nice clean edges you just made after trimming/chamfer/debur. Might make a difference, may not.

I would make sure the brass you put through your resizing die is clean...dirty brass will put excess wear/tear on your dies. It's all fun and games until you have to remove a stuck case...

 

[AZ_Five56]

Many people tumble the brass again after the resizing process to get any excess case lube off...I don't, I just wipe off with a cloth.

If you tumble after resizing, you may end up rolling over the nice clean edges you just made after trimming/chamfer/debur. Might make a difference, may not.

I would make sure the brass you put through your resizing die is clean...dirty brass will put excess wear/tear on your dies. It's all fun and games until you have to remove a stuck case...

Good to know on the tumbling after resizing. I'll look out for that.

I already did an initial cleaning in the dry tumbler of over 10,000 cases. It doesn't have a mirror finish, but it's all clean and I don't think it will give me any problems for resizing.

 

[TheAccountant]

If you run a little nucar in your dry media before you dump your brass in it'll shine them up. Corn will generally produce a better shine than walnut with a little less debris. Cut up a couple used dryer sheets in 1/2 and throw them in with your brass to keep the dust and debris down. I don't care if they look like brand new brass, I just want the crud off of them to keep the dies in good working order.

I find it easier to tumble off the lube. I usually run the tumbler, pull the brass, dump them in the case feed, then start the next batch while I'm loading. Once I'm empty, I start the next batch.

I trim off press on a Giraud. For 5.56, if it's 1x mil brass I'll trim and then won't trim again until it's 4x, and even then what gets trimmed is pretty minimal. I keep my shoulders pretty tight and it doesn't cause feeding issues in my rifles, but depending on your chamber and how much you bump your shoulders you may need to trim more or less often.

 

[Harrier]

...
I made a little check list that I place in each ziplock bag of 50 cases that tells me what stage(s) have been completed;...

you mean like this...



of course not every box gets checked every time but its there for those occasions... I often have various batches of brass in various stages of readiness laying around... sometimes for months or longer... keeping a sheet like this with each batch really helps remembering... oh yeah.

 

[knockonit]

so many methods to get to same event, some i have used, but tend to go path of least resistance, for me easier, don't reload much rifle (223) and used to 300winmag and a couple others for long range, but alas, i'm older now and just plink away with the easy stuff
thanks for all the info.
Rj

 

[High Standard]

I’m kinda OCD about cleaning primer pockets. In the order you are prepping brass you are cleaning then depriming. That will leave most primer pockets dirty. I find it easier to deprime first then clean brass. But that is just my OCD talking.

 

[AZ_Five56]

If you run a little nucar in your dry media before you dump your brass in it'll shine them up. Corn will generally produce a better shine than walnut with a little less debris. Cut up a couple used dryer sheets in 1/2 and throw them in with your brass to keep the dust and debris down. I don't care if they look like brand new brass, I just want the crud off of them to keep the dies in good working order.

I've never heard of using dryer sheets. That's an interesting idea.

First, I used walnut media. I think it worked on the brass faster. Next, I tried the corncob media. It takes almost twice as long, but I agree that it produces a better shine. Still, there tend to be a few cases that don't come out as clean as I want them, so I throw them in for another tumble.

 

[AZ_Five56]

...
I made a little check list that I place in each ziplock bag of 50 cases that tells me what stage(s) have been completed;...

you mean like this...

Case Prep Single-2.jpg

of course not every box gets checked every time but its there for those occasions... I often have various batches of brass in various stages of readiness laying around... sometimes for months or longer... keeping a sheet like this with each batch really helps remembering... oh yeah.

I already have enough brass that I'm starting to lose track of what is what, so thanks for that!

 

[AZ_Five56]

I’m kinda OCD about cleaning primer pockets. In the order you are prepping brass you are cleaning then depriming. That will leave most primer pockets dirty. I find it easier to deprime first then clean brass. But that is just my OCD talking.

I think I'll always do bulk batches in this caliber which will probably keep me in a similar workflow of doing the initial cleaning with the primers in. At this point, I'm still planning on doing a follow up cleaning after depriming and resizing, so that should take care of it.

Do you have any suggestions on whether or not deburring the flash hole is necessary? I don't know if that's only reserved for ultra-long-range shooting, or if that a good general practice.

 

[TheAccountant]

Don't take this as a knock or an insult because 95% if people, including myself, are in the same boat, but I think at this point the best way for you to shrink groups is to spend as much time as possible behind a rifle practicing good mechanics and learning the wind. Take the time you're willing to spend cleaning and deburring primer pockets and spend it dry firing instead. I guarantee you'll see more results downrange doing that than you will messing with primer pockets.

 

[QuietM4]

Don't take this as a knock or an insult because 95% if people, including myself, are in the same boat, but I think at this point the best way for you to shrink groups is to spend as much time as possible behind a rifle practicing good mechanics and learning the wind. Take the time you're willing to spend cleaning and deburring primer pockets and spend it dry firing instead. I guarantee you'll see more results downrange doing that than you will messing with primer pockets.

Go to a PRS match and see who is shooting factory ammo....you won't see many.