Brass Annealing

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shawnff

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Joined
May 14, 2018
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Just got into my first magnum cal 7mm rem mag and I am looking for someone to anneal a small quantity of brass from time to time for me. I will pay a fair price just want someone local.
 
use a torch and a drill bit that is smaller than 7mm it will rotate at an even speed to heat equally its easy to do there is a youtube video
 
omegaman said:
use a torch and a drill bit that is smaller than 7mm it will rotate at an even speed to heat equally its easy to do there is a youtube video
This is how I do it, when it’s done tip it into a bowl of water.
 
how consistent is it? how do you know how long, and what temp you are heating the brass too??
 
I hold the primer end of the case in my hand. I rotate it with my fingers. When I feel heat at the case end I drop it into the water. I feel that this is fairly consistent. There are services on line that anneal small quantities (100 pcs) for around $25 if you want.
 
azrednex said:
I hold the primer end of the case in my hand. I rotate it with my fingers. When I feel heat at the case end I drop it into the water. I feel that this is fairly consistent. There are services on line that anneal small quantities (100 pcs) for around $25 if you want.

I know, I was looking for someone local I could pay
 
I use a cordless drill and a socket that loosely fits the case. rotate slowly for about 3~6 sec in 2 propane burners. I found using one burner didn't do it right and one side usually got too hot while trying to get an even anneal so i went to 2 burners opposite each other and it really made a difference-use the pencil torch tip and their flames should touch/overlap. I don't even use water- just drop into an old ammo tin with a towel.

At first I used two temps of tempilaq- 750 and 450 IIRC to see how hot the shoulder & body areas were getting... until I got used to seeing the color change at the shoulder- you don't want to heat them 'red hot"- just look for the blue rainbow washing over the shoulder- it should look like LC or IMI or XM855 does when cooled. Doing it in a dimly lit garage also helps... practice on some junk brass first- its easy.
 
azrednex said:
I hold the primer end of the case in my hand. I rotate it with my fingers. When I feel heat at the case end I drop it into the water. I feel that this is fairly consistent. There are services on line that anneal small quantities (100 pcs) for around $25 if you want.

That's similar to the way I did it. I used gloves sitting on my pool deck. As soon as I felt the heat I dipped it in the water. I've been shooting 7 Mag since the 70's and never annealed the brass. When it gets to where it needs it, it goes into my scrap pile. I've only annealed brass that was reformed, i.e. 7.7 Jap or 7.65 Argie from 30/06.
 
I have been involved with commercial loading and reloading for 20 years, I have never annealed any cases that were already formed, never. Just another way for someone to separate shooters from their money. Reforming a case you need to anneal, resize to original size, clean, anneal, resize to new dimensions, trim , clean, anneal. Not really any other need other than anal retentiveness unless reforming.

When we make new brass it is annealed multiple times, every draw is a wash, dry and anneal in a oven, induction annealing is the very last step. Brass is exposed to tons of pressure when we draw it, if you are not making new cases it is not needed.

Firing a case and resizing is not enough "working" of the brass to stress it to the point of needing stress relief. You guys are all being sold a bill of goods.

Our annealing processes are exact every time, the oven is a constant temp and it takes exactly the same time to travel through the oven every time. The induction annealing machine has a variable of +/- 2 degrees. Proper temperature is critical. You guys are really just wasting time and money.
 
Yes, the case necks don't split as soon as if you don't, so you get a few more reloads per case.
 
Whether or not it actually provides benefits is definitely a matter of opinion. I suggest doing a google search and read the various articles on annealing. I think German Salazar Ken Howell and others have produced authoritative and technically detailed papers of the subject.

I usually only do it for 223, 243 and 308, and I think I get more re-loads between split necks and more uniform neck tension, but I don't actually know as I have never made an exact count. I never do it for pistol rounds. I think there are benefits to doing it for selected calibers, mainly varmint or target shooting where precision is more important.

It's easy to do on a low budget and only has to be done every so often that it doesn't impact my routine much and I have the peace of mind that if it does help then I'm covered. I agree the high dollar automated machines are nice but but are more for the person with money to burn than necessity.
 
I have only been reloading for a few years and have not annealed the brass. The person that had taught me did not anneal either as far as I know. (Not that this is the "correct" way).
How often would you anneal a case, after a certain number of times? or at each reloading?
 
I have been loading for years and have never annealed cases, but I am getting into the long range game and the more I read and understand when hitting targets out to 1000 yards it can make a difference in neck tension uniformity from case to case.
 
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