Stock Refinishing

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Bowhunter-tw

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Project I just atarted. Refinishing an A bolt stock with a Linseed oil finish. Will post after photos once finished! Who else prefers linseed oil hand finish over the old resin/poly coating some of the older wood stocks had?

Pictures are what I started with. Already stripped old finish off and steamed dents out. First coat of oil has been applied, need to take pictures
 

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I really like finishing will oil as well. This is a stock I redid with Danish oil last year. I actually did finish it with a few coats of satin exterior poly to add a little more protection and still keep the sheen down. I really hate the high gloss finishes. Just my personal preference.


Weatherby-1.jpg
 
Looks awesome! How does tung oil compare to linseed? And which satin poly did you use? I may finish with a coat to protect it

Im finding the stock I have is a lower grade wood, but it was given to me so im not complaining.
 
Bowhunter-tw said:
Looks awesome! How does tung oil compare to linseed? And which satin poly did you use? I may finish with a coat to protect it

Im finding the stock I have is a lower grade wood, but it was given to me so im not complaining.

I'm sorry, I remembered that I actually did that stock with Danish oil. I just edited that post.

The Danish oil is actually a mix of tung oil and linseed oil. Application-wise, I think it's all the same. I did a bunch of research on what types of oil yield which kinds of results on different woods, and that's how I made my decision. I couldn't even tell you off the top of my head what differences they would produce at this point.

As far as the satin poly goes, I just used a spray can and sanded it with fine steel wool between coats. The pain of the steel wool is that it leaves a lot of fibers behind that you need to remove before the following coat. It may produce a better result to brush on the poly (I'm no expert, so check me on that.) Whatever you do, I'd recommend something that's meant for exterior use. Otherwise, it will yellow over time due to UV contact.
 
I recently "restored' a 1912 production 1903 Springfield. Found a correct style wood stock (unfinished) to replaced the cut down stocker. Finished with many, many coats of linseed oil and it came out awesome for such a simple process.
 
I did two shotguns in the past, was very happy with them. The really beat up one is the top one in the finished picture.
 

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AZ_Five56 said:
Bowhunter-tw said:
Looks awesome! How does tung oil compare to linseed? And which satin poly did you use? I may finish with a coat to protect it

Im finding the stock I have is a lower grade wood, but it was given to me so im not complaining.

I'm sorry, I remembered that I actually did that stock with Danish oil. I just edited that post.

The Danish oil is actually a mix of tung oil and linseed oil. Application-wise, I think it's all the same. I did a bunch of research on what types of oil yield which kinds of results on different woods, and that's how I made my decision. I couldn't even tell you off the top of my head what differences they would produce at this point.

As far as the satin poly goes, I just used a spray can and sanded it with fine steel wool between coats. The pain of the steel wool is that it leaves a lot of fibers behind that you need to remove before the following coat. It may produce a better result to brush on the poly (I'm no expert, so check me on that.) Whatever you do, I'd recommend something that's meant for exterior use. Otherwise, it will yellow over time due to UV contact.

My experience with cabinetry and other wood working is it's best to spray any sort of varnish. Just put it on thin to avoid runs. If you do get a run, just let it dry then shave it off with a straight blade razor. Then sand and spray another coat. Also, I prefer to use the scotch brite style sanding pads instead of steel wool.
 
iammaxwell said:
My experience with cabinetry and other wood working is it's best to spray any sort of varnish. Just put it on thin to avoid runs. If you do get a run, just let it dry then shave it off with a straight blade razor. Then sand and spray another coat. Also, I prefer to use the scotch brite style sanding pads instead of steel wool.

Doing thin coats makes sense to me. I've heard some say to put on as heavy of coats as possible before it runs, but that seems like a fine line to walk.

I've always liked working with scotch brite pads more. I've just never used them on a woodworking project. I'll give it a try sometime.
 
AZ_Five56 said:
iammaxwell said:
My experience with cabinetry and other wood working is it's best to spray any sort of varnish. Just put it on thin to avoid runs. If you do get a run, just let it dry then shave it off with a straight blade razor. Then sand and spray another coat. Also, I prefer to use the scotch brite style sanding pads instead of steel wool.

Doing thin coats makes sense to me. I've heard some say to put on as heavy of coats as possible before it runs, but that seems like a fine line to walk.

I've always liked working with scotch brite pads more. I've just never used them on a woodworking project. I'll give it a try sometime.

I guess they're called scuff pads. Anyway, not as messy as steel wool, but don't gum up like sand paper.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LWTWCKY/?tag=azs08d-20
 
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