Springfield Problem

[gunpoorboy1]

So according to older forums I've read on the subject, the Springfield Range Officer Champion in 9MM has pretty much always had problems with reloads. As the story goes, Springfield tolerances are so tight that this firearm rejects most reloads, but is super great with factory ammo.

So I take my brand new Springfield to the range today and sure enough it jams on every other round of my reloaded 9mm. The 50 rounds of factory stuff when through without a hitch.

So here's my question. I've shot my reloads out of my G19, Sig P365, Beretta 92, Browning High Power and my S&W M&P 9MM. WHY WON'T IT SHOOT OUT OF MY SPRINGFIELD. I'm assuming that since the tolerance problem was valid in forums 6 to 8 years ago, they would have fixed any problem on their end.

What do you think guys?

 

[delta6]

So according to older forums I've read on the subject, the Springfield Range Officer Champion in 9MM has pretty much always had problems with reloads. As the story goes, Springfield tolerances are so tight that this firearm rejects most reloads, but is super great with factory ammo.

So I take my brand new Springfield to the range today and sure enough it jams on every other round of my reloaded 9mm. The 50 rounds of factory stuff when through without a hitch.

So here's my question. I've shot my reloads out of my G19, Sig P365, Beretta 92, Browning High Power and my S&W M&P 9MM. WHY WON'T IT SHOOT OUT OF MY SPRINGFIELD. I'm assuming that since the tolerance problem was valid in forums 6 to 8 years ago, they would have fixed any problem on their end.

What do you think guys?

I think you should load your ammo to factory tolerances. I have two Springers in 9MM and do not have a problem. It takes a bit more work, but these guns will print one hole at 25.

 

[gunpoorboy1]

And how do I determine what "factory tolerances" are? Since I've never had any problems with
any of my other 9MM's I'm not sure what you are talking about? Please explain.

 

[Gunslinger808]

Load with the same powder/charge as factory might be a good start.
Also, size your brass to what a factory case is (pull one and use it to set), both diameter and length, and are you doing full length sizing?
And some guns are just that way, I have a friend with an auto mag that won’t fire reloads no matter what he does to the cases, it has to be new Starline brass every time, drives him crazy.

 

[delta6]

And how do I determine what "factory tolerances" are? Since I've never had any problems with
any of my other 9MM's I'm not sure what you are talking about? Please explain.

Gunslinger808, gave you a good start. As he mentioned, some guns, for what ever reason, just prefer, different foder and a more pains taking approach. Recently we learned that a bullet profile that I have been loading for years in 9MM, at a specific OAL and shot in Glocks, Hi-Powers, CZ's, Colts, SIG's, Springfield's, Lugers and S&W's, with absolutely no issues, will not chamber in a new Taurus G3. They have a rather short throat. So now for that firearm, we load a bullet with a close profile to factory bullets with a shorter OAL and the Taurus runs flawlessly.

 

[Flash]

My guess is a sizer that doesn't size brass all the way to the bottom, like the Dillon Size die. I shoot with 3 people who have STI guns and have had the same problem. They solved it by getting rid of the Dillon sizer die and using a Lee.

Is that what you've got, a Dillon size die?

 

[Boriqua]

I don't have nearly the experience as delta or flash but here are a couple things I have had happen in case it helps.

On a particular 10mm the ramp was kind of steep and the recoil spring was stout and when using plated bullets the nose would actually dent significantly and lodge itself midway into the chamber. Wouldn't happen using either hard lead or jacketed bullets. Then it ran like a champ.

My sigs in 40 will eat anything but my m&p will balk at the 180 lead. The m&p has a much tighter chamber and it hates the ogive. If I shorten the oal a touch the lead will work in the m&p.

Solved the problem but I was a little worried about pressure so I just don't use the lead in the m&p. It will eat reloads with 155 and 165 grain plated or jacketed bullets all day so I stocked up on zero bullets.

Funny thing was I measured 20 times and the 180 lead cartridge I was making was spot on oal the same as the factory 180 cartridge. It just hated the bullet
profile

 

[knockonit]

OP, didn't actually describe issue, failure to go into battery, failure to feed, lots of options here, share the info, and some of these jokers can get you on the right track, hehehe, reloading the other drug, can be a boon or a bust, pending issues.

The taurus issue was mine, we finally narrowed it down, by adjusting aol a smidge, one woujld think the amount was not an issue, but once done it runs like a timex. it was the same on a g2c also. only gat i had that would not feed some reloads, thankfully those particular reloads are color coded, hehe, so its easy to find the culprit if in the reload box and pull for another gat.

good luck
Rj

 

[QuietM4]

What, exactly, is the type of malfunction? Can't really nail down an exact issue unless we know the exact problem.

 

[gunpoorboy1]

Hey, based on your comments and suggestions let me add some more info. I guess it would be nice if I told you what the problem was. My bad.

Ok, the first round racked ok. I shot, the brass would eject, but the slide would not go back into battery. I would have to push the slide forward by hand, very hard. This was the consistent problem.

I see where my factory ammo is 1.15 long by 0.385 wide
My reloads average 1.11 long by 0.387 wide

Do you think my reloads are not close enough to factory tolerances to create this problem?

 

[Flash]

Again, are you using a Dillon sizing die?

 

[QuietM4]

Sounds like normal new 1911 problems. Shoot some factory ammo to break it in, make sure it's properly lubed up.

I'm going to assume you have a firm grip on the firearm and are not limp wristing or tea cupping it, but if you are doing either of those, stop it.

What you are describing is not an uncommon issue for any new 1911, 9mm or 45acp. I've never been a fan of the shorter barreled 1911's...your issue is a very common complaint.

Your reloads shouldn't "average" anything...they should all be basically identical if you are doing everything correctly.

Are you reloading with an odd shaped bullet? Flat nosed vs round?

Since factory ammo worked flawlessly, it is definitely your reloads that are causing the issues.

 

[gunpoorboy1]

No, not using a Dillon sizing die. Using an RCBS carbide 3 die set.
My average quote was out to the 3rd decimel point which is 1000th of a point off
of factory loads (on an average). If that's the problem then I'm up sh#t creek cause I'm thinking
that's pretty good. I'm gonna hope that QuietM4 is correct in the possibility that it just might need a good breaking in. I've cleaned it and lubed it up good and will be taking it back to the range next Tuesday. I'll let those that are interested know if it gets better. Thanks to everyone giving advice.

 

[QuietM4]

Take a look in the chamber and check for any burrs or scratches, also. You don't need a mirror finish, but make sure it isn't rough.

On the rounds that will not go into battery, are there dents, scratches, scrapes, etc.?

 

[Flash]

What's the ogive shape? RN, HP, SWC or other?

 

[Pale Rider]

This is a classic not enough information from the OP to help him. First off, what type of brass are you using? There is 9mm brass that's thicker, like military WCC. What type of bullet are you using? If you combine a larger diameter lead bullet that's sized .356-.357 with the thicker brass, you'll get bulged cases that will cause your problem ("slide would not go back into battery"). That's just one possibility given the limited info.

 

[delta6]

This is a classic not enough information from the OP to help him. First off, what type of brass are you using? There is 9mm brass that's thicker, like military WCC. What type of bullet are you using? If you combine a larger diameter lead bullet that's sized .356-.357 with the thicker brass, you'll get bulged cases that will cause your problem ("slide would not go back into battery"). That's just one possibility given the limited info.

Good info. :clap:

 

[gunpoorboy1]

Again, gentlemen, I appreciate your input. Here are some answers to some of your questions:

*Probably 95% of the brass I'm using is once shot (by me) Remington, Blazer, Winchester or Federal.
*None of my reloads are bulging for any reason. If they were they wouldn't pass the gauge test.
*I use Berry's bullets in my reloads and they are round nose, all copper plated.
*There are no scratches or burrs on or around the chamber entrance.
*My powder charge is middle, or above middle, range as outlined in the latest Hornady reloading manual.

I have separated 20 rounds from my reloads that went in and out of my gauge easy peasy. My OAL's are all consistent to factory ammo. I cannot visualize any reason whey this ammo will not cycle.

I will shoot them Tuesday after firing 100 rounds of Federal and Blazer 9MM and report the results.

 

[omegaman]

for the base of the case use a lee finishing dye to fully size in the last hole on the press.

 

[delta6]

Again, gentlemen, I appreciate your input. Here are some answers to some of your questions:

*Probably 95% of the brass I'm using is once shot (by me) Remington, Blazer, Winchester or Federal.
*None of my reloads are bulging for any reason. If they were they wouldn't pass the gauge test.
*I use Berry's bullets in my reloads and they are round nose, all copper plated.
*There are no scratches or burrs on or around the chamber entrance.
*My powder charge is middle, or above middle, range as outlined in the latest Hornady reloading manual.

I have separated 20 rounds from my reloads that went in and out of my gauge easy peasy. My OAL's are all consistent to factory ammo. I cannot visualize any reason whey this ammo will not cycle.

I will shoot them Tuesday after firing 100 rounds of Federal and Blazer 9MM and report the results.

Thanx for the update. Can you post a picture of one of your loaded rounds next to a factory round (and tell us the weight and manufacturer of the factory round)?
Also, what do you mean "My OAL's are all consistent to factory ammo"?