Smith and Wesson RevolveR EXPERTS

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gunpoorboy1

Member
Joined
Jun 16, 2018
Messages
316
Location
Phoenix
I just got a used S&W model 29-10.
Cosmetically it's in great shape, but.....
I have not live fired it yet but in dry firing it, the trigger sometimes sticks to the back (does not return to firing position.)
This gun has probably had less than a box of ammo through it so I'm wondering if its a problem from the factory, or may hasn't been fired enough, or?????
Looking for thoughts on this.

Also,

The cylinder does not have the same beautiful blue shine that the frame has. It's just a bit duller. Is this normal for a new revolver?

Thanks for the help guys.
 
If its older and been sitting around I would bet congelled (sp) lubricant. When i got my 28 the trigger was super slugish. I took off the side plate and the grease was yellow and hardened. The rebound slide in particular was caked in off color grease. I gave it a good cleaning, took the opportunity to slightly polish the rebound slide and frame where it made contact, applied new grease and it was like new!
 
Taking the side plate off and cleaning would be my vote. I've had a couple of Smith's that when I took it apart they still had chips inside of them. Light oil in the wear areas, if its really old maybe new springs then try it again.
 
I would have to agree it sounds like a rebound issue. If it is not gummed up the problem could also be someone tried to reduce the trigger pull by cutting the rebound spring to much.
 
Boriqua said:
If its older and been sitting around I would bet congelled (sp) lubricant. When i got my 28 the trigger was super slugish. I took off the side plate and the grease was yellow and hardened. The rebound slide in particular was caked in off color grease. I gave it a good cleaning, took the opportunity to slightly polish the rebound slide and frame where it made contact, applied new grease and it was like new!

Alex, I remember how terrified you were to take off the side plate. IIRC, you found a YouTube video showing how to vibrate the plate loose by tapping the frame, and that Thou Shalt Not Pry the sideplate off. Now you are an old hand at it.

OP, go ye forth and do thou likewise. It's educational to peek inside the workings of your revolver to see what is going on, and YouTube is your friend.

Wouldn't hurt to watch somebody else do it, in case you can hook up with Pneuby or somebody else.

As Cmoor posted, I would not be surprised if somebody clipped coils off the trigger rebound spring to try to improve the trigger pull. Not a good idea. Wolff Gunsprings sells spring replacement kits for your N-frame that are both cheap and gratifyingly effective at improving trigger pull. Highly recommended.
 
Yup simply tapping at the grip frame with the back end of a Klein screwdriver shook that side plate right off. The rest was cake. You can learn very worthwhile stuff on here sometimes!! :mrgreen:

I do have a copy of Jerry Miculek's video "Complete revolver" but in all honesty the older smiths are pretty easy to figure out ... once you get that damn side plate off!

gunpoorboy1
Everything is probably on youtube but if you're in the hood ... east mesa .. and want to borrow a copy of the "Complete Revolver" just shoot me a PM.
 
First thing I'd check is the mainspring tension. The screw at the lower front of the of the grip-frame.
Some folks think that allows you to somehow adjust the trigger-pull. Not.

If you don't know what a proper hollow-ground screwdriver is, google that up first, LOL. Then, don't be surprised to find it having been loosened.

The finish issue is also bothersome. On a full carbon-steel gun, they should match. I don't want to scare you, but if the prior owner got frisky with his reloads, that might be a replacement cylinder.
 
I have some older wood handle gunsmith screwdrivers. A couple of them have beat up handles from whacking the grip frame with handle. I’ve been using that set since the 70’s.
Back from before you could go to YouTube for all your answers.
 
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