I've been using gun oils forever. They work well, but if a gun sits for awhile the oil runs away from the key spots. I've heard grease is more messy and takes more time to clean. What do you prefer and why? If you like grease better, what grease are you using?
Oil or grease for semi auto?
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Steve_In_29
Member
As you note, grease stays in place better. Either will work you just have to spritz some oil on the weapon prior to shooting if you go the oil route. I have done both at one time or another.
shooter444
Member
I do both, moly based grease before going back in the safe, a few squirts of Ed's Red during an extended shooting session on top of the moly when needed, and then moly after cleaning and then back in the safe. I really like molybdenum for all my lube needs. I have found it to be a fantastic ingredient when making cast lead reloading lube. I have had my last 4 once bottle for about 3 years now, a little goes a very long way!
There was a time I would break down my bolt assembly after every shooting session. Once, during my early experimenting with molybdenum based grease, I tried putting grease on my firing pin before reassembly, NOT GOOD, immediate FAILURE!
There was a time I would break down my bolt assembly after every shooting session. Once, during my early experimenting with molybdenum based grease, I tried putting grease on my firing pin before reassembly, NOT GOOD, immediate FAILURE!
harleypower69
Member
Tough question as it depends (for me) what component we are lubricating. Grease on the rails generally and light oil (Miltec) on other components. If I lived in a colder climate I might use a very light grease like Wilson's product.
WRMorrison
Member
If it slides; grease it. If it rolls/rotates; oil it. Or at least, that's what I was always told.
Using the Garand as an example, I use oil on maybe 1 or 2 places (can't remember offhand), but I use grease on everything else. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff). I apply with with a children't medicine syringe (they give them away at the pharmacy) and then spread it around into a thin layer with a small, hobby paint brush.
But, oddly enough, I don't use the same train of thought on every firearm (maybe I should? :think: ). On the AR's, I use CLP on everything (in light coats).
-WRM
Using the Garand as an example, I use oil on maybe 1 or 2 places (can't remember offhand), but I use grease on everything else. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff). I apply with with a children't medicine syringe (they give them away at the pharmacy) and then spread it around into a thin layer with a small, hobby paint brush.
But, oddly enough, I don't use the same train of thought on every firearm (maybe I should? :think: ). On the AR's, I use CLP on everything (in light coats).
-WRM
WRMorrison said:
That old axiom has little bearing in reality. Oil is easier to get into tighter spaces, but there's little reason not to use grease if you are able to apply it. Grease will stay put far longer, and that alone is reason enough to use it wherever applicable.
Steve_In_29
Member
Which is interesting as I remember using LSA (a light grease) to lube my M16s in the Marines before CLP was ever a thing.WRMorrison said:
Personally, CLP does a poor job at ALL of it's intended purposes.
samnev
Member
I use LSA most of the time. Still have 2 pints left from purchase of 4 pints 15 years ago. IIIC it was $10 a pint.
samnev
Member
I use LSA most of the time. Still have 2 pints left from purchase of 4 pints 15 years ago. IIIC it was $10 a pint.
mike400
Member
I use the Froglube paste. Non-toxic and I have have had excellent results with it. For example on my new glock I have about 800-1000 rounds through it and the factory barrel show almost no wear on the outside where it rubs on the front frame..
Steve_In_29
Member
Froglube... :lol:
Someone likes paying a premium for Crisco.
Someone likes paying a premium for Crisco.
Steve_In_29 said:
One of the guys in my weekly shooting group accumulates gun like RJ does. Anyway, he used Froglube for a while. A few months ago he found a gun he'd used it on and hadn't shot in around a year.
It was locked up tight and he had a hard time getting it apart and getting the old Froglube out.
brandyspaw
Member
Flash said:
I found that stuff gets gummy when the guns are stored as well.
Back when Frog Lube came out my local FFL guy had bought a bunch of it to sell. I try to buy some things from my FFL guy occasionally rather that just use him for transfers. So I bought Frog Lube and degreased and lubed a couple of AR's that got stored away for the summer. They were so gummy when I got them out to use they wouldn't function.
If you use Frog Lube be careful about storing your guns long term in the heat. Anyway, I've pretty much went back to cheap old Mobil 1 oil for most everything and I rarely use grease except for certain applications like the M1A, Garand, etc.
WRMorrison
Member
Steve_In_29 said:
Just checked the bottle, and your right; it's LSA and not CLP. Getting close to being empty though, and I'll need to find more. They still sell that stuff?
-WRM
Steve_In_29
Member
AFAIK LSA is still in use in the Military (though not for M16s) so is still in production.WRMorrison said:
airedalex2
New member
I know this is going to seem strange but back in the late 80’s I read an article in gun test magazine. I don’t know if it is still published. They compared lots of different gun lubes, rem-oil etc and they came to the conclusion that 20w 50 motor oil works just as good. I bought a quart and am still using it. Smith 469, Sig 226, my first Glock 17, Ruger 10-22, Mini 14, AK, AR back in the day. And all of my current firearms. Afew drops and everything keeps running good. Not real tactical but seems to work.
Steve_In_29
Member
In reality (advertising claims aside) pretty much ANY oil is going to work just fine on a weapon.airedalex2 said:
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