Cleaning / Maintaining Wood Stocks

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BigNate

Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2020
Messages
799
Location
Phoenix
I recently picked up a mid '60s commercial M1 Carbine in relatively pristine shape. I want to do what I can to protect the wood - but don't want to change the color or otherwise alter the gun. Most of what I'm finding on the M1 Carbine forums appears to be specific to the older, war era stocks (I think). The primary advice is to wipe it down with something like denatured alcohol, then wipe it down with linseed oil. I'm worried that doing this will change the color of my stock. So - any experiences in this area? M1.jpg

Advice?

Whatever I try will be done first either under the butt plate or on the inside under the action - but I'd really like to learn from other's experiences... :-)

Thanks...
 
BigNate said:
I recently picked up a mid '60s commercial M1 Carbine in relatively pristine shape. I want to do what I can to protect the wood - but don't want to change the color or otherwise alter the gun. Most of what I'm finding on the M1 Carbine forums appears to be specific to the older, war era stocks (I think). The primary advice is to wipe it down with something like denatured alcohol, then wipe it down with linseed oil. I'm worried that doing this will change the color of my stock. So - any experiences in this area? M1.jpg

Advice?

Whatever I try will be done first either under the butt plate or on the inside under the action - but I'd really like to learn from other's experiences... :-)

Thanks...

When I worked in Museums with museum collections we used renwax on the frames and assorted other pieces. Its not cheap but a little goes a very long way. I must have my little tin for 10 years now. It will offer some sheen but I havent found that it changes the color ... AND .. you can use it on the metal bits too to help preserve them.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax
 
Small amount of Ballistol on a micro fiber towel does wonders. You can protect both the wood and and the metal with that stuff.
 
If that were my rifle I think I'd stay away from denatured alcohol. The denatured alcohol might damage or outright dissolve whatever finish is on that stock. I would prefer to use mineral spirits in this case.
 
stomp442 said:
Small amount of Ballistol on a micro fiber towel does wonders. You can protect both the wood and and the metal with that stuff.

Boriqua said:
When I worked in Museums with museum collections we used renwax on the frames and assorted other pieces. Its not cheap but a little goes a very long way. I must have my little tin for 10 years now. It will offer some sheen but I havent found that it changes the color ... AND .. you can use it on the metal bits too to help preserve them.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Wax

Thanks gents... I'll try them both! Amazon will have them on the porch tomorrow morning. I'll probably use them on a couple of different guns first - just paranoid about doing anything that I can't reverse on this one...


hrob said:
If that were my rifle I think I'd stay away from denatured alcohol. The denatured alcohol might damage or outright dissolve whatever finish is on that stock. I would prefer to use mineral spirits in this case.
Thanks sir... Yeah - Mineral Spirits were the other general purpose cleaner mentioned. I think that the folks who were talking about these were really more focused on getting heavy grime / cosmolene off of milsurp guns. Mine, being a '60s era civilian gun has never seen that sort of treatment so I'm primarily concerned with protecting what is there on the wood today - not taking anything off of it. I'm thinking I'll wipe it down with a "barely damp" (with water) microfiber cloth to get any dust off the surface, and then try one of the wood polish products (after I've tried them on another similar wood stock).

shorepatrol said:
I use Howards feed&wax.
Thanks sir - I've already order the other two (Ballistol and Rennisance Wax) and I'm going try them first - I'll probably get a bottle of this on the way after to give it a shot too.
 
Good Luck Nate. I find the Renwax likes to be applied warm and thin so dont treat it like butchers wax. I actually use my fingers to apply it so my body heat helps. Its amazing stuff and I even use it on the slides of my guns and it does an amazing job of helping to protect from holster wear.

When I had my Henry I used it on the stock, forend and brass ... it was amazing!
 
Boriqua said:
Good Luck Nate. I find the Renwax likes to be applied warm and thin so dont treat it like butchers wax. I actually use my fingers to apply it so my body heat helps. Its amazing stuff and I even use it on the slides of my guns and it does an amazing job of helping to protect from holster wear.

When I had my Henry I used it on the stock, forend and brass ... it was amazing!

This brings up memories of days long past - heating boot wax with a lighter before getting after a spit-shine on the black leather boots. :-)

Thanks again. I think I'm going to tear down the old Lee Enfield and SKS this weekend - give them both a good cleaning and go over one with wax and one with Ballistol.

Based on how those go - I'll proceed with the M1 Carbine... :-)
 
This will sound crazy, but it's not.
Try the easy way - Lemon Pledge.
Cleans and lightly shines.
Works great for quick clean ups.
Also works great on plastics.
 
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