3D-printed guns are getting better

[Suck My Glock]

Obviously, no DIY printed plastic pistol frame based on a METAL pistol is going to last very long IF IT WORKS AT ALL. But,...many guys are experimenting,...finding out what the limits are to using existing (and unregulated) parts kits minus the destroyed receiver/frame,...looking to see just how long such a thing might last.


Think along the lines of the U.S. made Liberator that was air-dropped to citizens all over occupied Europe, designed to allow people willing to resist to ambush Germans and take their weapons. Perhaps you don't need a 3D-printed pistol frame to last for over 1000 rounds if all you need it for is last long enough. Whether to capture weaponry from an oppressing invader or just to be ditched in the storm drain after assassinating a UN Colonel. Maybe all you need is a good basic design that will outlast a few magazines.

This guy 3D-printed a SIG228 frame for a parts kit, and so far it has lasted 520 rounds.

https://twitter.com/UberPoor/status/1614789943381098497

 

[Boriqua]

correct me if I am wrong but .. is he just using the plastic from the 3d print as Slide rails? I wouldnt have expected them to last 520 rounds and counting if that's so.

 

[XJThrottle]

That's what it looks like.

 

[Jack Dupp]

correct me if I am wrong but .. is he just using the plastic from the 3d print as Slide rails? I wouldnt have expected them to last 520 rounds and counting if that's so.

The frame rails of the old Ruger P95 were all polymer as well, and that gun could take an absolute beating.

That said, the plastic frame rails on the P95 bothered me so I sold it a couple decades ago. And it's one of the reasons why I haven't and won't own a Croatian XD pistol - the gun having polymer rear rails. That, and because Springfield Armory sucks.

 

[Suck My Glock]

correct me if I am wrong but .. is he just using the plastic from the 3d print as Slide rails? I wouldnt have expected them to last 520 rounds and counting if that's so.

Exactly yes, and why I am impressed. I definitely would not have expected it to function at all, much less for half a case of ammo and still ticking.

 

[Boriqua]

Both my classic sigs are a little sloppy in the Slide to frame fit. I guess its not that important since much of the recoil would be picked up at the locking block? Or .. I admittedly have no clue!

 

[Suck My Glock]

This kid has obviously drunk too much coffee or Red Bulls before getting in front of the camera. But regardless,...this seems pretty cool. I'm guessing he's using an FRT or WOT in the trigger group, because I don't see a 3rd pin. But maybe my eyes are bad.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uB3ciHT5qwY

 

[paulgt2164]

It has come along way (I have been printing for 8+ years) and the materials you can run through these machines is getting better and better. You can get carbon fiber infused plastics, several different nylons, PETG, ABS, PLA, etc for these machines.

The real game changer would be if someone develops a resin for resin printers that is super durable. Resin printers have way higher resolution and produce way better prints that filament based machines. The problem with all the consumer grade resins, however - is they are brittle.

I have both types of machines, and I printed a Glock 42 lower on the resin printer and was able to install all the parts to make it work with zero "finishing" effort. It was perfect. However - I never fired it because I knew it would fail immediately due to the resins being brittle. I 3d printed a grip for my Ruger Precision a couple months ago (one of those 90 degree ones.) I didn't want to spend 50-75 bucks to learn I hated it - so 6 hours later and probably .50 cent in plastic I had one. So far it has held up great.

 

[Boriqua]

It has come along way (I have been printing for 8+ years) and the materials you can run through these machines is getting better and better. You can get carbon fiber infused plastics, several different nylons, PETG, ABS, PLA, etc for these machines.

The real game changer would be if someone develops a resin for resin printers that is super durable. Resin printers have way higher resolution and produce way better prints that filament based machines. The problem with all the consumer grade resins, however - is they are brittle.

I have both types of machines, and I printed a Glock 42 lower on the resin printer and was able to install all the parts to make it work with zero "finishing" effort. It was perfect. However - I never fired it because I knew it would fail immediately due to the resins being brittle. I 3d printed a grip for my Ruger Precision a couple months ago (one of those 90 degree ones.) I didn't want to spend 50-75 bucks to learn I hated it - so 6 hours later and probably .50 cent in plastic I had one. So far it has held up great.

I would imagine you have to learn 3d modeling software. Do you just use autocad which can be difficult to learn or do they offer their own simplified proprietary software. I did 3d modeling in Vecterworks and it took me a couple of years to be somewhat good with it and you still had to translate the files to Autocad if you wanted to use them on a CNC

 

[paulgt2164]

Pretty much the "standard" these days for normal people is Autodesk Fusion360. It has a large feature set for 3d printing or machining.

I usually recommend people start out with the free "TinkerCAD" which is a browser based system, then transition to Fusion360.

AutoCAD isn't really "for" 3D Printing whereas Fusion360 is. That, and you can get a free "Maker" license for Fusion360 and there are a ton of online tutorials. Fusion360 and TinkerCAD can export to the .STL format that the printers use.

 

[Suck My Glock]

https://twitter.com/NaviGoBoom/status/1630949120167886849

 

[paulgt2164]

I have printed a few lowers to dial in my settings, and I am happy with how they print. I am going to print a few out of stronger materials and try them out with a dedicated .22LR upper.

Materials have come along way. For years all you could get was basically PLA and ABS. Now you can get PLA+, PETG, Nylons, and Carbon Fiber impregnated filaments that are quite strong. Still not up to production polymers - but still quite a leap from 8-10 years ago.

I recently upgrade machines to a much larger one (went from a print area of 8"x8"x8" to 17"x17"x18") and the new machine cost what my very first one did ten years ago that was a whopping 4"x4"x4" lol.

Since Sportsman's in my part of town absolutely blows - and never have anything useful in stock like 9mm ammo boxes, I just print my own.

 

[Suck My Glock]

Those are cool. :clap:

 

[Boriqua]

I agree .. that is very cool Paul!

 

[BigNate]

It will be interesting to see how the advent of metal filaments advances the world of 3D printed guns. I'm having a hard time imagining the ability to print parts that require VERY hard / durable parts (barrels, bolts, etc.) but the rest of the gun... well... I see no reason why not...

 

[Suck My Glock]

It will be interesting to see how the advent of metal filaments advances the world of 3D printed guns. I'm having a hard time imagining the ability to print parts that require VERY hard / durable parts (barrels, bolts, etc.) but the rest of the gun... well... I see no reason why not...

Metal 3D printing already exists, but the machines are still very expensive. But they have come down from 1 million dollars to now only about $100,000. Eventually they might come down to $10,000. They are unlikely to replace forged parts, but could do quite a bit.

 

[BigNate]

It will be interesting to see how the advent of metal filaments advances the world of 3D printed guns. I'm having a hard time imagining the ability to print parts that require VERY hard / durable parts (barrels, bolts, etc.) but the rest of the gun... well... I see no reason why not...

Metal 3D printing already exists, but the machines are still very expensive. But they have come down from 1 million dollars to now only about $100,000. Eventually they might come down to $10,000. They are unlikely to replace forged parts, but could do quite a bit.

Sounds like it's moving into the consumer printer space... sorta...

From: https://all3dp.com/2/3d-printer-metal-filament-for-real-metal-parts/

"A key benefit of metal filament is how easy it is to print with on a regular 3D printer. Just note that, by “regular”, we mean any FDM printer with a heated bed and a hardened steel nozzle that can reach the required temperatures of at least 180 ºC to 220 ºC. In theory, this means that you don’t need an expensive machine; you can print it on machines under $200, like an Ender 3 or Anet A8."

Does not look like it's "all the way there" yet - but its headed that way...

 

[Mojeb21]

That kid Hoffman is genius. I follow his stuff