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I have shot 250rds through my 686 and probably dry fired as much. It is a very different trigger than my Ruger GP but I got the hang of it and shoot it fairly well. I have purchased a spring kit and plan on using the heaviest Trigger return spring and the reduced hammer spring that comes with the kit. The heaviest return spring is 14# and from what I could gather the stock is 18#.

I am thinking the reduced power hammer spring will make the most difference in the stacking.

I am pretty sure I have the right type an size screwdriver bit. I am not afraid to tinker but really dont want to mess up the cosmetics of such a nice gun. Having said all that .. the only question I still have is .. when reinstalling the side plate .. Blue loctite or naked?

Naked. No Loctite needed, and if you use it, you increase the risk of dinging up the screw heads next time you take it apart.

And you know you don't pry the sideplate off, right? You tap the grip frame with a wood or rubber hammer handle and the vibration pops the sideplate off. Don't need to force it back on, either.

smithers599 wrote: ↑June 27th, 2019, 10:02 am Naked. No Loctite needed, and if you use it, you increase the risk of dinging up the screw heads next time you take it apart.

And you know you don't pry the sideplate off, right? You tap the grip frame with a wood or rubber hammer handle and the vibration pops the sideplate off. Don't need to force it back on, either.

I will admit .. I am a little nervous. I have worked on a host of my own guns but this gun is kind of special to me so I dont want to screw it up. I looked at some 5 different videos. I have a small plastic and larger rubber hammer and the guy in the midway video taps it like you said on the grip frame. I have seen some people tap it directly on the removable side plate to make it kind of pop off but .. I am going to avoid that I think.

My big concern is how thin this side plate may be. So much to read about people damaging it makes me think its paper thin?!

Thank you for the video!! It makes it seem so easy

It's not thin it's just not needing to be pryed on like a paint can.

Sideplate is not particularly thin.

It is easy if you do it right. If you have to force anything, stop, you're doing it wrong.

Lots of little parts that are easy to lose. Keep a bowl handy to put the screws and other little parts in.

Changing out the rebound spring is not easy -- unless you buy the special tool from Brownells. Unless you are a gunsmith doing lots of them, not worth the money. Use a medium to large flat-head screwdriver and watch a video or two.

just around the corner... LMK if need a hand.
Have done a "few" in my time.

Easy operation, as all ready noted, nothing to it.

easy to do. do the work on a carpet sample and all parts stay and dont roll or bounce

alex, step away from the screw stick, less you mar a absolutely bootiful piece of machinery, hehehe maybe an intervention is in order
Rj

The spring kit is due in Monday but I still don't know if I will install it. It has smoothed out from dry fire and some spray clp. The carpet section is an awesome suggestion though!

I have the right screw driver tips but ....damn ima scared!

Well ... I am glad I didnt rush to take it apart. While i am sure it might lighten the trigger it was a lump that I was having trouble with and after further research and close (using a jewelry lope) scrutiny .. Its not the weight of the springs I am having trouble with but the hand to star fit. The ratchets had heavy burrs as if the hand and it were rubbing up hard.

When I cleaned the star and dried it the drag got worse .. when I put a little oil on the ratchet teeth .. Pulls straight through without a big lump. Trigger pull weight isnt bad at all and I actually like the trigger return rate.

So I cleaned out the tiny metal shavings from the ratchet teeth that can only be seen with a lope and put some oil and its pretty nice.

I could stone it some but .. I am inclined to just clean it up directly after a couple more outings and see if the hand and ratchet dont just mate up. Seems they are doing that now.

Have to keep in mind that my Ruger has about 1000 rds through it and as much dry fire.

And it didn't explode, and you didn't break the sideplate into a dozen pieces.
Good for you!

Normally, there is no need for Loctite, unless you find the screws loosen up after a shooting session, or two, or three.

If they do loosen, I wouldn't use any stronger than Blue Loctite, and if you have to go stronger,... a little heat can prevent any resistance to removal, if ever needed. Some hair dryers can work, if you have reservations about using a torch/flame.

jmo

You can tell if someone pried the sideplate off... at the very top right radius, there will be a burr where the sideplate rubbed against the sharp edge of the frame. the line will be marred and not thin/even. Once you know what to look for you won't ever buy a pried gun again. tap the grip frame with a wood or plastic object.

smithers599 wrote: ↑July 4th, 2019, 11:56 am And it didn't explode, and you didn't break the sideplate into a dozen pieces.
Good for you!

Lets not make light of the favor I did my sphincter. Just the thought of opening up the side plate had me clenching my a$$ cheeks hard enough to make tortillas.

However .. I am going to the range soon and will see once and for all if I feel the need for the springs or so I just put the kit up for sale.