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You guys with your "elective" tinkerin' make me jealous.
My project at the moment...

azrik wrote: ↑September 10th, 2021, 2:36 pm You guys with your "elective" tinkerin' make me jealous.
My project at the moment...
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That looks like it had too many neutrals.

9x19mm wrote: ↑September 1st, 2021, 7:18 pm It seems I'm always tinkerin. I have an old SW model 39 that I have grown fond of that is in need of refinishing. So I thought what the hell, lets try some basic pistol smithing stuff.
I blended some machined surfaces, undercut the trigger guard a little. Did the same on the beaver tail a little. And then I tried my hand at checkering the front and back strap. Bought some new grips and now its off for cerakote.

So its back from refinishing. NP3 slide and controls, satin black cerakoted frame. Hogue grips. New wolf springs throughout. I'm happy with the results.

Tore apart my old LR-308 to try and spot why I get flyers. Had made scope zeroing a hopeless task, every time a nice group started, it would wander. Have a nice Fulton Criterion barrel that should be MOA or better.

Got the barrel nut off with a bit of heat, it did not seem to have much of any breakaway torque. That bugs me.

Cleaned it all up and found just perceptible slop in the receiver-barrel fit. No bore (ID) gauges, so no idea how much gap there is.

Bought a .308 receiver facing tool and found about 45° on one side of the pin gap was high. Continued gently until I had bare aluminum 360.

Been reading about various ways to tighten the receiver to barrel fit, loctite and shimming. Got some .001" SS shim stock and decided to try that first. Bought a shop torch i was overdue to get and heated the receiver to almost 400° according to the IR temp checker.

slid right over the shim (held in place with rubber band) and had to work fast as things cooled. Popped it all the way on and let it cool.

Absolutely rock solid now. Will reassemble and torque when I get a new Brownells action bar. I certainly expect some improvement in consistency. So frustrating to shoot two shots touching, then a 2" flyer at 100 yds.

QuangTri wrote: ↑November 25th, 2021, 1:55 pm Tore apart my old LR-308 to try and spot why I get flyers. Had made scope zeroing a hopeless task, every time a nice group started, it would wander. Have a nice Fulton Criterion barrel that should be MOA or better.

Got the barrel nut off with a bit of heat, it did not seem to have much of any breakaway torque. That bugs me.

Cleaned it all up and found just perceptible slop in the receiver-barrel fit. No bore (ID) gauges, so no idea how much gap there is.

Bought a .308 receiver facing tool and found about 45° on one side of the pin gap was high. Continued gently until I had bare aluminum 360.

Been reading about various ways to tighten the receiver to barrel fit, loctite and shimming. Got some .001" SS shim stock and decided to try that first. Bought a shop torch i was overdue to get and heated the receiver to almost 400° according to the IR temp checker.

slid right over the shim (held in place with rubber band) and had to work fast as things cooled. Popped it all the way on and let it cool.

Absolutely rock solid now. Will reassemble and torque when I get a new Brownells action bar. I certainly expect some improvement in consistency. So frustrating to shoot two shots touching, then a 2" flyer at 100 yds.

That's a fun project, but probably not the issue causing flyers. Many variables that could cause flyers, but at least you can eliminate one of them. My bet is on the ammo.

finally got the jeep crawler running, had to take it to a shop, the factory alarm went wackie and had to have it removed, boy what a deal that was, runs like it oughta, now to hopefully get new top and upper doors, and it goes up for sale. My crawling days are over, if only i didn't have someone hold my beer whilst i broke something major it would continue, but am too old to crawl out from under it on repairs, i can get there but need a life saving rope to get me out. yeehaw, sure miss the offroading
Rj

I needed some scope caps, but didn't want flip ups. Just something to protect during transport and storage. Couldn't find anything that I liked - so I just 3d modeled some up and printed them.

Printed out of TPU which is a flexible filament that has similar qualities to rubber. Worked great.



I need to finish my other gun related project - I am building a range cart with interchangeable shelves to hold different firearms / accessories (IE - black powders stuff, rifles, small handguns, large handguns, archery, etc.) I really dislike what I see on the market (they all look like baby strollers or are made of fabric/poles) and want something modular and that takes up less space and has more usage options. I have printed a few different "modules" - now just need to fab the cart.

Automotive wise I have a customer's really cool little Datsun 510 with a rather large list of issues. Was put together some time ago with a modern drivetrain and never really sorted Has driveline, steering, electrical, and drivability issues. Will be getting A/C as well while I have it. If there is one thing I have learned over the years - if you leave an industry (in my case, hot-rods and customs) people will always find you and pay you to do it anyways.

Tuned up my 6 inch S&W 686-2 action went from 14.5 pound double action to 6.2 pounds with a single action pull under 2 pounds... I also tightened the cylinder lock up and stretched and aligned the yoke back to shooting better than new... I also smoothed up my 642 while I was at it...

I purchased an used S&W 6904 that came from Tel Aviv. Already ordered a few parts, but not super confident in tuning it. That said, going to see if I can find some YT vids showing how to tune the action on this gun and go from there. I figure as long as I don't mess with the sear, and don't remove too many fractions of a mm of metal on other parts, shouldn't have an issue.

Disassembled my okuma reel spinning reel. Scrubbed it clean. Then oiled, greased it and reassembled it.

Since I wanted some wall art for my office - I made a case for my super high end pistol. Inspired by the cases you would get with Colt Navy revolvers and the such. Turned out pretty good for about ~30 bucks.

Only the best for the Yeet Cannon.