Springfield Problem

[Pale Rider]

This is a classic not enough information from the OP to help him. First off, what type of brass are you using? There is 9mm brass that's thicker, like military WCC. What type of bullet are you using? If you combine a larger diameter lead bullet that's sized .356-.357 with the thicker brass, you'll get bulged cases that will cause your problem ("slide would not go back into battery"). That's just one possibility given the limited info.

[delta6]

This is a classic not enough information from the OP to help him. First off, what type of brass are you using? There is 9mm brass that's thicker, like military WCC. What type of bullet are you using? If you combine a larger diameter lead bullet that's sized .356-.357 with the thicker brass, you'll get bulged cases that will cause your problem ("slide would not go back into battery"). That's just one possibility given the limited info.

Good info.

[gunpoorboy1]

Again, gentlemen, I appreciate your input. Here are some answers to some of your questions:

*Probably 95% of the brass I'm using is once shot (by me) Remington, Blazer, Winchester or Federal.
*None of my reloads are bulging for any reason. If they were they wouldn't pass the gauge test.
*I use Berry's bullets in my reloads and they are round nose, all copper plated.
*There are no scratches or burrs on or around the chamber entrance.
*My powder charge is middle, or above middle, range as outlined in the latest Hornady reloading manual.

I have separated 20 rounds from my reloads that went in and out of my gauge easy peasy. My OAL's are all consistent to factory ammo. I cannot visualize any reason whey this ammo will not cycle.

I will shoot them Tuesday after firing 100 rounds of Federal and Blazer 9MM and report the results.

[omegaman]

for the base of the case use a lee finishing dye to fully size in the last hole on the press.

[delta6]

Again, gentlemen, I appreciate your input. Here are some answers to some of your questions:

*Probably 95% of the brass I'm using is once shot (by me) Remington, Blazer, Winchester or Federal.
*None of my reloads are bulging for any reason. If they were they wouldn't pass the gauge test.
*I use Berry's bullets in my reloads and they are round nose, all copper plated.
*There are no scratches or burrs on or around the chamber entrance.
*My powder charge is middle, or above middle, range as outlined in the latest Hornady reloading manual.

I have separated 20 rounds from my reloads that went in and out of my gauge easy peasy. My OAL's are all consistent to factory ammo. I cannot visualize any reason whey this ammo will not cycle.

I will shoot them Tuesday after firing 100 rounds of Federal and Blazer 9MM and report the results.

Thanx for the update. Can you post a picture of one of your loaded rounds next to a factory round (and tell us the weight and manufacturer of the factory round)?
Also, what do you mean "My OAL's are all consistent to factory ammo"?

[QuietM4]

I'd be more interested to see a picture of the barrel chamber and throat...I don't think it's just the reloaded ammo, but a combination of the two variables (barrel and reloads)

[Old Jeff H]

I have a feeling that a slight adjustment in your OAL and/or slightly increasing your crimp might solve the problem.

I ran into a similar problem with my ex-wife's Springfield. Shortening by .005" and another half turn on the Lee FCD made all the problems go away.

[marlin39a]

Does your ammo pass the plunk test? Remove the barrel, and drop your ammo into the chamber. If it hangs up, that could be an issue.

[samnev]

Man oh man that is really a frustrating pistol. I hope he finds out what the problem is.

[Joelafives]

Do you case gauge the reloads? Alternatively - pull the barrel on the pistol and drop the rounds in the chamber, do they drop seamlessly?
I've found, with National match or other firearms with tight tolerances that my reloads must pass through a case gauge with zero problems. It makes sense when you think about it. To get great accuracy you must have tight tolerances, for reliability you need looser tolerances. Hence the reason we saw Military issue 1911's that fed anything but groups were marginal. Whereas custom build 1911's were tack drivers.

[Old Jeff H]

Berry's are .001" larger in diameter than jacketed bullets to begin with, and you said your reloads are .002" larger at the case mouth than the factory ammo.

Keep adjusting your taper crimp die down until you either get to factory case mouth diameter, or until it feeds properly. Hopefully you don't have to go far enough to start worrying about cutting the copper plating.