Has anyone dealt with this: mounted on an Uzi, and it replaces the barrel nut so the rear opening is fairly large. Overall it’s a large suppressor, about 11 inches long, 2 inches diameter. I went to clean it and started to get pieces of copper jacket and large chunks of carbon out. It doesn’t look like a baffle strike. I can’t take it apart as it looks sealed. Yes it’s been fired mainly in auto and has had 1000 to 2000 rds. through it. Because of its size it doesn’t get real hot. Coastal is out of business so I can’t call them.
Anyone have an idea on why this happens and how to clean it out?
Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
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Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
Last edited by 1bardan+ on March 6th, 2025, 12:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
brakethrough works pretty good.
- Suck My Glock
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Re: Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
I doubt the pieces of jacket are from actual jacketed bullets, but likely just pieces of copper plating from plated bullets. The plating process for bullets has come a long way since they first premiered on the reloading scene about 35 years ago. It was common then for plated bullets driven faster than 1200 fps to strip themselves from the rifling inside the bore and simply tumble downrange. Bullet platers slowly refined their processes and things got better. Plating got thicker. Casting alloy got harder. But not all bullet platers evolved at the same pace. Berrys and Xtreme have survived because they adapted best and quickest to solve the issues.
One of those issues was shedding of plating under higher CUP or PSI calibers. The phenomenon isn't as bad with calibers that operate at lower pressures like .380, .45acp or .38spl which are all below 20,000 CUP. But 9mm and .40S&W for instance operate closer to 35,000. And 10mm runs at 38,000 or so, as does 9mm+P. I noticed that it was not uncommon when cleaning up muzzle brake ports on IPSC guns that ate a steady diet of plated bullets to find bits and flakes of plating that had fused to the baffle surfaces. I can easily imagine that if the owner of that can shot a lot of plated bullets, a lot must have accumulated inside there.
For decades I stayed away from plated bullets because of these shedding issues, and because I wasn't aware the matter was improving. About 10 years ago, upon discovering how much better plated bullets had gotten, I began using them on a limited basis, but still only for subsonic loadings. When I would disassemble a suppressor to clean it, I did still find some copper plating flakes, but not a distressing amount. It did concern me however that, copper being harder than lead, over time, the blasting bits might prematurely erode the baffles, so I limited my suppressor ammo to truly jacketed only for the longest time. In the last 5 years, I've become a convert to the polymer coated stuff for suppressor ammo. They are often at least as affordable as plated, but usually cheaper, and reduce internal deposits of lead as a whole.
One of those issues was shedding of plating under higher CUP or PSI calibers. The phenomenon isn't as bad with calibers that operate at lower pressures like .380, .45acp or .38spl which are all below 20,000 CUP. But 9mm and .40S&W for instance operate closer to 35,000. And 10mm runs at 38,000 or so, as does 9mm+P. I noticed that it was not uncommon when cleaning up muzzle brake ports on IPSC guns that ate a steady diet of plated bullets to find bits and flakes of plating that had fused to the baffle surfaces. I can easily imagine that if the owner of that can shot a lot of plated bullets, a lot must have accumulated inside there.
For decades I stayed away from plated bullets because of these shedding issues, and because I wasn't aware the matter was improving. About 10 years ago, upon discovering how much better plated bullets had gotten, I began using them on a limited basis, but still only for subsonic loadings. When I would disassemble a suppressor to clean it, I did still find some copper plating flakes, but not a distressing amount. It did concern me however that, copper being harder than lead, over time, the blasting bits might prematurely erode the baffles, so I limited my suppressor ammo to truly jacketed only for the longest time. In the last 5 years, I've become a convert to the polymer coated stuff for suppressor ammo. They are often at least as affordable as plated, but usually cheaper, and reduce internal deposits of lead as a whole.
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Re: Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
Most, not all of the bullets I’ve used were RMR or Berrys 147 gr plated. Heavy enough to be subsonic with enough pressure to operate the gun.
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Re: Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
Update to coastal gunroom suppressor. The end will screw off. It takes a proprietary wrench (or something home made) and a lot of force. It then comes apart easily.
- knockonit
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Re: Coastal Gunroom Suppressor
aw if'n folks dont get on board to fight the new proposed legislature law they are trying to shove down our throat, you won't have to worry about this problem, you'll be in the slammer