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My Dan Wesson has a 22lb stock and throws brass into low earth orbit with full power. Leave it or get a heavier one?

I use 22 Ib or 24 Ib, depends on what your shooting.

I used a 24lb spring on my 10mm's and my 45 Super. I also used a slightly heavier mainspring and tried the flat bottom firing pin stops. Using these to "tune" the ejection pattern kept my brass in a fairly small circle about 8 ft away from my firing position. I didn't like using the recoil spring alone to control brass flying out to become lost as the higher forward slide speed can really batter the barrel lugs/legs on my pistols. Slowing the recoil speed seemed to improve brass life too.

Tim

What does the flat bottom firing pin stops do?

My trigger is all tuned up not sure i want to change mainspring. Heard 20 and a shock buff also. Or just run it as is not like it’s going to her shot as much as my competition guns. Can’t imagine a 24 would be any worse than a 22 really as far as return slam

Thing shoots great by Way. Maybe best to just leave it

The flat bottom stops keep the slide in battery longer until pressure drops off some. The radius on a std. firing pin stop make it easier to rack the slide but the flat bottoms really do work with the hotter 10mm rds. Yes, the mainsprings can affect your trigger tune up and also create a little more wear due to the increase in pressure between the hammer and sear. The old pay me now or pay me later...
Even with the extra trouble with the hot 1911's, they sure do carry a lot easier in the field than my old Redhawk or N frame S&W's! Now if I could just make a 1911 function with snake loads..reliably.

True. Ok thanks fir the info. I’ll look into it

There's no good option here. The slow powders used in 10mm just put to much impulse into the slide for a simple blow-back recoil design to handle.
The STI recoil master in +P ( they make it but don't advertise it) with a square firing pin stop and a heaver mainspring is about the best I found. 180's at 1150fps is about the best I can do. In my gun it throws them up instead of sideways so I can at least find the brass.

It won’t get shot as much as my completion 1911s so not too worried. Mainly a defensive option. I have shot out 1911s after a decade of heavy use. Not gonna happen with this one so maybe I’ll look and see about flat FPS

Tim55 has the right of it. My Delta Elite is built to handle really hot stuff so I have a ramped Wilson barrel, a 22 pound recoil spring, a flat FPS and a 25 pound (!!!!I know, right???!!!!) mainspring. It's a beast with hot rounds. The 25 pound main really gives the gun a rather hefty trigger pull in dry fire. For some weird reason, it isn't so bad with live rounds. I've gone with the "don't ask, don't tell" policy on that little behavior.

It's a woods gun by and large so I like the setup BUT I would NOT recommend it for novices, that's for sure.

I only recently got back into the 10mm game with a Rock Island 1911 but in the past I had both a blued and SS Colt Delta Elites. I always ran 22-23 pound recoil springs in those Delta Elites and I never had any frame cracking or reliability issues.

I prefer to balance my 10MM 1911's using a 20# recoil spring,
and I "up" my mainspring to 26#. I also add a flat firing pin
stop plate - all of this makes for nice function with the "hotter"
factory loads (Underwood, Double Tap, etc.) and as you spread
the "resistance" over the 3 areas, you don't get the forward slide
slam caused by using a heavier recoil spring, resulting in less wear.

Kimber TLE/RL tuned like my 10mm's for .45 Super