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I've been using gun oils forever. They work well, but if a gun sits for awhile the oil runs away from the key spots. I've heard grease is more messy and takes more time to clean. What do you prefer and why? If you like grease better, what grease are you using?

As you note, grease stays in place better. Either will work you just have to spritz some oil on the weapon prior to shooting if you go the oil route. I have done both at one time or another.

I do both, moly based grease before going back in the safe, a few squirts of Ed's Red during an extended shooting session on top of the moly when needed, and then moly after cleaning and then back in the safe. I really like molybdenum for all my lube needs. I have found it to be a fantastic ingredient when making cast lead reloading lube. I have had my last 4 once bottle for about 3 years now, a little goes a very long way!

There was a time I would break down my bolt assembly after every shooting session. Once, during my early experimenting with molybdenum based grease, I tried putting grease on my firing pin before reassembly, NOT GOOD, immediate FAILURE!

Tough question as it depends (for me) what component we are lubricating. Grease on the rails generally and light oil (Miltec) on other components. If I lived in a colder climate I might use a very light grease like Wilson's product.

If it slides; grease it. If it rolls/rotates; oil it. Or at least, that's what I was always told.

Using the Garand as an example, I use oil on maybe 1 or 2 places (can't remember offhand), but I use grease on everything else. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff). I apply with with a children't medicine syringe (they give them away at the pharmacy) and then spread it around into a thin layer with a small, hobby paint brush.

But, oddly enough, I don't use the same train of thought on every firearm (maybe I should? ). On the AR's, I use CLP on everything (in light coats).

-WRM

WRMorrison wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2018, 9:50 am If it slides; grease it. If it rolls/rotates; oil it. Or at least, that's what I was always told.

That old axiom has little bearing in reality. Oil is easier to get into tighter spaces, but there's little reason not to use grease if you are able to apply it. Grease will stay put far longer, and that alone is reason enough to use it wherever applicable.

WRMorrison wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2018, 9:50 am

But, oddly enough, I don't use the same train of thought on every firearm (maybe I should? ). On the AR's, I use CLP on everything (in light coats).

-WRM

That's the Marine in you, bro.

WRMorrison wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2018, 9:50 am If it slides; grease it. If it rolls/rotates; oil it. Or at least, that's what I was always told.

Using the Garand as an example, I use oil on maybe 1 or 2 places (can't remember offhand), but I use grease on everything else. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff). I apply with with a children't medicine syringe (they give them away at the pharmacy) and then spread it around into a thin layer with a small, hobby paint brush.

But, oddly enough, I don't use the same train of thought on every firearm (maybe I should? ). On the AR's, I use CLP on everything (in light coats).

-WRM

This is my philosophy exactly. On handguns and everything but ARs, if it slides or has metal to metal, grease it, otherwise oil it.
Like WRM though, I use nothing but oil on ARs and AR look alikes like the Sig MPX

WRMorrison wrote: ↑June 23rd, 2018, 9:50 am If it slides; grease it. If it rolls/rotates; oil it. Or at least, that's what I was always told.

Using the Garand as an example, I use oil on maybe 1 or 2 places (can't remember offhand), but I use grease on everything else. I prefer Mobil 1 synthetic (the red stuff). I apply with with a children't medicine syringe (they give them away at the pharmacy) and then spread it around into a thin layer with a small, hobby paint brush.

But, oddly enough, I don't use the same train of thought on every firearm (maybe I should? ). On the AR's, I use CLP on everything (in light coats).

-WRM

Which is interesting as I remember using LSA (a light grease) to lube my M16s in the Marines before CLP was ever a thing.

Personally, CLP does a poor job at ALL of it's intended purposes.

I use LSA most of the time. Still have 2 pints left from purchase of 4 pints 15 years ago. IIIC it was $10 a pint.

I use LSA most of the time. Still have 2 pints left from purchase of 4 pints 15 years ago. IIIC it was $10 a pint.

Is LSA still in production or is the "new" stuff I see online unopened surplus?

I use the Froglube paste. Non-toxic and I have have had excellent results with it. For example on my new glock I have about 800-1000 rounds through it and the factory barrel show almost no wear on the outside where it rubs on the front frame..

Froglube...

Someone likes paying a premium for Crisco.

Steve_In_29 wrote: ↑June 24th, 2018, 9:01 pm Froglube...

Someone likes paying a premium for Crisco.

One of the guys in my weekly shooting group accumulates gun like RJ does. Anyway, he used Froglube for a while. A few months ago he found a gun he'd used it on and hadn't shot in around a year.

It was locked up tight and he had a hard time getting it apart and getting the old Froglube out.